Washington Cake

What is a Washington Cake?

The Washington Cake is a rich, tender pound cake that combines natural ingredients like currants soaked in brandy, and warm spices like nutmeg and cloves. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, it was prepared in honor of Washington’s Birthday on February 22nd. Also known as an “everyday cake”, it is similar to a Composition Cake, a basic adaptable recipe that predates the naming of cakes like “sponge cake” or “pound cake”, etc. Try baking up this historic vintage dessert to celebrate the upcoming President’s Day.

Washington Cake can sometimes be mistaken for Martha Washington’s Great Cake, a rich fruitcake made at Mt. Vernon on January 6th for Epiphany or Martha Washington’s Pie, which is a delicate sponge cake with fruit jam.

Here is an original recipe for “A Great Cake” and several variations from The Martha Washington Cook Book (1940, 2005), features heirloom recipes passed down from the 18th century, adapted for 20th-century home cooks. From colonial spiced cakes to savory roasts, it offers a glimpse into early American cooking, full of old-fashioned flavor and charm. Authored by Marie Kimball, this cookbook serves as a culinary time capsule, preserving the tastes and culinary practices of the 1940s.

The Martha Washington Cook Book (1940, 2005), features heirloom recipes passed down from the 18th century, adapted for 20th-century home cooks. From colonial spiced cakes to savory roasts, it offers a glimpse into early American cooking, full of old-fashioned flavor and charm. Authored by Marie Kimball, this cookbook serves as a culinary time capsule, preserving the tastes and culinary practices of the 1940s. Here is an original recipe for “A Great Cake” and several variations.

The original Great Cake recipe dates back to the late 1700’s, and called for 40 eggs, 4 pounds of sugar, 4 pounds of butter, 5 pounds of flour, along with raisins, currants, wine, brandy, and spices. It was yeast-leavened before baking powder became widely available, and it required long hours of preparation and baking. This rich, decadent cake was typically only made for special occasions like English Twelfth Night celebrations, held around January 5th or 6th.

More recipe research

Baking it Modern

To bake it Modern, I started by taking the original 1800’s recipes and broke them down into American modern measurements and modified it.

1 3/4 lbs. flour= 6 1/3 cups all purpose flour

1 1/2 lbs. sugar = 3 1/3 c.

3/4 lb. butter = 1 1/2 c. butter (3 sticks)

8 eggs

1 pint warm milk = 2 c.

1 teaspoonfull of pearl ash dissolved in french brandy = 1 1/2 tsp. baking powder

NOTE: Pearl Ash was a potassium carbonate chemical leavening agent used in early days.

2 lbs. currants or raisins, or 1 lb. of each, = 5 – 6 c. currants

2 nutmegs = 2 tsp.

6 cloves = 1/2 tsp.

1 teacup brandy = 1/3 c.

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Wet Ingredients

• Butter is made from churned cream that contains 80% butterfat. European butter is churned longer and has a higher fat content (82%-85%), which is why it yields more flavor.
• Sugar is derived from sugarcane and provides sweetness to baked goods. The most common type being granulated white sugar. Cane sugar is a natural option that is less processed with a slightly courser texture.
• Buttermilk is a cultured dairy product that adds a tangy flavor and creates tenderness in baked goods. When purchasing buttermilk, look for simple, natural ingredients such as “cultured milk”.
• Eggs are important in baking because their protein provides structure, they are a natural leavener trapping air that expands during baking, and they add moisture to baked goods.
• French Brandy, also known as Cognac, is a high-quality 80-proof spirit double distilled in the Cognac region of France. Brandy ranges from 70-100 proof and is made worldwide from a blend of fruit juices and grapes.
• Vanilla provides hints of caramel and spice, which enhances the depth of flavor in baked goods. Homemade vanilla is best, or use a high-quality, all-natural brand that contains at least 35% alcohol.

Dry Ingredients

• All-purpose unbleached flour that contains between 10-12% protein. My favorite is King Arthur or Sir Galahad Artisan Flour (its name when purchased in bulk) which contains 11.7% protein. Do NOT use Bread flour as it contains 11-14% protein, thus producing more gluten and yields dense baked goods.
• Instant ClearJel is a modified food starch used as a thickener, stabilizer, and gelling agent, used for pie fillings creating a clear, smooth texture rather than cloudy. In baked goods it helps retain moisture and produces a light, tender texture. Use cornstarch as a substitution if ClearJel is hard to find. For every 1 T. of cornstarch, use 1 1/2 T. ClearJel. For every 2 T. flour or tapioca, use 1 T. ClearJel. You can find it online here.
• Baking soda, also known as sodium bicarbonate, is a leavening agent that, when combined with an acid (like lemon juice, buttermilk, or vinegar) creates carbon dioxide gas to make baked goods rise.
• Baking powder is a leavening agent that contains both an acid, like cream of tarter, and a base, like baking soda to help baked goods rise. Use a double-acting aluminum-free baking powder to avoid a bitter aftertaste.
• Nutmeg is a warm spice that comes from the nutmeg tree in the Spice Islands. It is available as whole nutmeg, grated or pre-ground.
• Cloves are the dried flower buds from clove trees, grown in the Spice Islands. Whole cloves can infuse flavor into culinary dishes, where ground cloves add a warm, spicy kick to baked goods.
• Pink salt adds essential minerals and nutrients to baked goods.
• Zante currants are are a small, dried, dark seedless grapes berries. If you don’t have currants on hand, smaller type raisins such as Thompson variety are fine.

Make your own ingredients

Buttermilk: Add 1 T. vinegar or lemon juice into a liquid measuring cup and add cream or whole milk until it reaches the 1 c. measure line and let it sit for a few minutes before use.

Vanilla: Purchase Grade B vanilla beans (also called extract-grade), which have less moisture and a more concentrated flavor. Place 8 ounces of bourbon (or vodka) in glass bottle or jar. Split 5-7 vanilla beans down the middle and add to bottle. Let it sit for 3-6 months in a cool, dark place. As you use it, continue to replace the bourbon and add more beans as it keeps for many years.

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Dietary Substitutions

For the past 12+ years, I have owned an all-natural specialty bakery converting conventional recipes to gluten free, vegan, wholesome, etc. You can read more about my pro-baking here.

Here are a few basic tips when converting conventional recipes into specialty baked goods.

• Shelf Life: Specialty baked goods tend to dry out faster and have a shorter shelf life than conventional baked goods. Store in an airtight container on counter for 1 – 2 days. For longer storage, freeze up to 6 months. Avoid refrigerating, as it can dry out baked goods.
• Let Batter Rest: Alternate flours can be dense or slightly gritty compared to white flour, so be sure to let the batter rest at least 15 minutes or overnight in the refrigerator before baking. This allows the flour to fully hydrate and produce a lighter, tender crumb.
• Oven Temperature: Alternative flours are delicate and tend to brown faster before the center is cooked through. Reduce oven to 325° and bake “low and slow,” adding a few extra minutes of bake time if needed.

Gluten-Free (no gluten)

• Flour: Swap out the flour with a premium gluten-free flour such as King Arthur Measure for Measure or use a homemade gluten-free flour blend. Be sure the flour blend contains xanthan gum or add 1/4 tsp. to 1/2 tsp. per every 1 cup of flour to the recipe.
• Hydration: Gluten free flours can make baked goods dense. Add 1 tablespoon of additional extra liquid (the same liquid called for in the recipe) to help lighten the texture.
• Fat: Add up to 1 to 2 Tbsp of additional fat, such as butter or oil to the recipe.

Vegan/Dairy Free (no animal products)

• Butter: Use unsalted vegan butter sticks such as Violife for best flavor and texture.
• Dairy: Replace dairy with unsweetened plant based milk such as oat, coconut or almond milk.
• Eggs: Replace each egg by adding 1 tsp. baking soda to the batter, then pour 1 Tbsp. white vinegar over it. Add the vinegar last though, to keep the leavening reaction.
• Fat: Add up to 1 to 2 Tbsp of additional fat like oil or vegan butter to the recipe.

Wholesome (minimally processed)

• Flour: Swap out 1/3 to 1/2 of the white flour with King Arthur white whole wheat flour or King Arthur 100% whole wheat flour or Bob’s oat flour.
• Sweetener: Replace white sugar with maple syrup or honey. Use 3/4 c. honey for every 1 c. sugar. You can also swap out the white sugar with 1:1 swap using natural cane sugar, coconut sugar or date sugar.
• Dairy: Replace dairy with unsweetened plant based milk such as oat, coconut or almond milk.
• Lower Fat: For every 1 c. of butter, use 3/4 c. heart-healthy oil (like canola or extra-light olive) OR 1/2 c. unsweetened applesauce + 1/2 c. oil.

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Storage

Baked Cake: Cover in air-tight container and leave on counter up to 3 days. To freeze, cover in saran wrap and place in freezer-safe container up to 6 months. Thaw on counter in the container for 1/2 hour before opening up the container.

Unbaked Batter: Prepare batter and place in a sealed container up to 3-5 days in refrigerator.

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